Sometimes when you are obsessed with world travel and thoughts of adventure abroad, it is easy to forget about the cool and unique places your own local area can offer. I am definitely guilty of this behaviour, but have been attempting to be more 'locally aware' through my Backyard Bucket List travel series.
I grew up in the area around Drumheller, Alberta, and my family still resides there. This means I get to go home every now and then and appreciate the landscape in a more mature way. As a kid, Drumheller meant singing lessons and grocery shopping trips, but not much more. Yes, I had partaken in all of the dinosaur hype: visiting the museum, hugging reptiles at Reptile World (now closed), and hiking the hills. But I took most of it for granted then.
My journey through Drumheller has just begun! |
When I started writing my Backyard Bucket List series, I revisited some of these sights with a new appreciation. A few weeks ago, I took advantage of some of the last days of summer to drive the "Dinosaur Trail" once more, to give my readers a feel for the loop and what to expect.
World's Largest Dinosaur
There are many ways to travel the Dinosaur Trail, and no way is 'correct' or 'incorrect'. So for the sake of clarity, we will begin THIS version of the loop at a very distinct tourist landmark. That way you can be sure of the directions that follow in this post. We will begin at the World's Largest Dinosaur, a massive female Tyrannosaurus Rex that towers over the town and features a spectacular view. I won't write about this much, as the dinosaur has already earned its very own post on this blog. Take some time to climb up her stairs and enjoy the view from her mouth. Don't forget to take goofy pictures pretending to be toe jam in her massive feet! There is a fee to climb, so you are required to pay at the gift shop before hitting the stairs.
Drumheller's "World's Largest Dinosaur" is a female T-Rex. |
Once you are done with the World's Largest Dinosaur, take 1st Ave West (also called Riverside Drive) into the heart of downtown Drumheller. Continue on that route until you hit South Dinosaur Trail, also known as Highway 575.
The first part of the South Dinosaur Trail isn't much to write home about. Along this stretch, drivers get an up-close-and-personal view of the industrial side of Drumheller. It isn't really pretty, but it fades quickly into the rearview mirror as you head out of town towards the former hamlet of Nacmine, which is now officially part of Drumheller itself. During my visit this summer, I had originally typed in my destination of 'Orkney Lookout' into Google Maps, but somehow ended up at a dead end somewhere in Nacmine, which was a tad bit frustrating. So heed my advice! Drive on past Nacmine, admiring it from the road. You can visit if you want, but it won't get you to our first stop on the trail.
Orkney Lookout
The trail continues on a scenic, if not serpentine, twisting road until you begin to ascend the hills and find yourself headed to the flat fields that surround the Drumheller Valley. At one point, Highway 575 turns left, but you will keep going straight on Highway 837. Before you really get into the fields, you must take a right-hand turn down a gravel road - there is a sign announcing that you have arrived at the turnoff for Orkney Lookout so keep an eye out for that. At the end of the gravel road, you'll find a wide parking lot overlooking the spectacular valley view. A few steps past the parking lot, and you are officially at Orkney Lookout. This is a free attraction so be sure to go enjoy it.
The beautiful Orkney Lookout showcases the Red Deer River perfectly. |
The view from Orkney Lookout is amazing. You can see for miles down a wide stretch of the Drumheller Valley. The glittering blue of the Red Deer River, combined with the multiple colours of the layered coulees makes for a picturesque view. There are benches where you can sit and enjoy the sight, and I spotted a few people laying out picnic lunches.
My Orkney Lookout selfie! |
Beyond enjoying the sweeping panorama and eating some grub, there isn't too much more to do at Orkney Lookout. There were a couple of little dirt trails headed off to either side of the parking lot, but I didn't head down either. Orkney Lookout is mainly located above a cliff (no fences, so be careful and don't let your kids run amuck!) so I can't imagine there are any extensive hikes to be had. I enjoyed the view and some fresh air, then returned to my car to locate the next stop on my little tour.
Bleriot Ferry
Drive back down the gravel access road that leads to Orkney Lookout and turn right, back onto Highway 837. You will be driving northwest for anyone who has a navigational compass in their vehicle dashboard. When you reach Highway 838 East (otherwise known as the NORTH Dinosaur Trail) turn right. This road will quickly take you to the Bleriot Ferry. As always, keep an eye out for signage to make sure you are on the right track.
The Bleriot Ferry surrounded by the beautiful layered hills of the Drumheller Valley. |
The ferry is quite old, although of course has been updated and upgraded with new technology over the years. It was originally built in 1913, and links the North Dinosaur Trail by providing access across the Red Deer River. I was going to say 'quick access', but then I would be lying.
As I said, I grew up in the Drumheller Valley area, and in all of those years I had never experienced the Bleriot Ferry. So I was quite excited to try it. I waited my turn patiently while another vehicle made its way across the river towards me. Only one vehicle can go at a time on this particular ferry. When the ferry landed and the ramp lowered, the car exited and I was waved aboard. The ferry ride is free, which is always nice. Just make sure to check your dates if you are visiting, because the ferry is only open from late April until November.
The massive pulley system that powers the Bleriot Ferry. |
However, there really isn't much to it. The ferry moves excruciatingly slowly. The gentleman running the ferry was a man of few words, and mostly just sat in his chair beside the controls and stared out at the world, lost in his own thoughts. All I heard was the hum of the ferry motor and birds chirping. I tried talking to the operator, but our conversation was stilted and awkward so I just gave up. After what seemed like forever, we landed on the other side of the river and I was given the signal to rev up my engine and disembark. Which I did gladly.
My disappointed face after crossing the Bleriot Ferry. |
On the other side, I watched the process repeat as the next car in line found its place on the ferry deck. Some kids hopped out of the car and began to wander around the ferry deck. I hoped they'd have more fun than I had. It wasn't a negative experience by any means... it was just not that exciting and I think I had built it up in my head too much. Oh well. At least I can say I have ridden the Bleriot Ferry!
Horse Thief Canyon
Next up on the loop is the majestic Horse Thief Canyon. I have written about this place previously, in my first Dinosaur Trail post. So I won't spend too much time now writing about it - you'd be better served by hopping over to that post with this link.
Horse Thief Canyon is pretty amazing. |
What I will say is that you'd better have a lot of space on your camera for photos, because Horse Thief Canyon does not disappoint! I want to come back and visit on a day when I have my children with me and lots of time to explore, because there are tons of hiking trails all throughout the canyon.
A selfie with the hills of Horse Thief Canyon behind me. |
To access the canyon from Bleriot Ferry, you have to stick to Highway 838 (North Dinosaur Trail) but this can be a little confusing because it makes a couple of 90 degree turns. There is signage to help guide you, but just in case, I've included a little map here for you. Once again, the canyon is free to access and enjoy, as you will notice most things are on the Dinosaur Trail.
A little driving direction assistance for you, courtesy of Google Maps. |
The Little Church
Once you have finished hiking around Horse Thief Canyon and filling up your camera roll, get back into your trusty vehicle and continue onwards down North Dinosaur Trail. You will drive for about 8 minutes until you see a teeny tiny little white church on the left-hand side of the road. As its size suggests, this is the aptly named Little Church.
The cutest little church you ever did see. |
It was first built in 1968, and was legitimately used as a place of worship. It needed repairs in the 1990s, and was reconstructed by inmates from the nearby Drumheller Institution. Today it is mainly a fun and quaint tourist attraction, although you can also get married there. Just don't invite more than 6 guests, because that's all the church seats.
When I went this summer, there were tons of tourists milling about and waiting their turn to go inside the church. It wasn't the best way to experience the attraction. However, I have written about the church previously and had much more opportunity to explore it then as I had visited in April, when no one else was about. As is the norm with the Dinosaur Trail attractions, the Little Church is free to visit.
Royal Tyrell Museum
Next up on the Dinosaur Trail is the world-famous Royal Tyrell Museum. I actually plan to do a post specifically on the museum at a future date, so stay tuned for that post! However, while a lot of people come from around the globe to visit the Tyrell Museum, many of them miss out on the great hike that is available on the museum grounds outside. I decided to do that hike during my summertime visit this year, and skipped the museum - I will go back in the fall or winter when it makes more sense to spend my day indoors rather than outside hiking in the snow.
An overview of the world famous Royal Tyrell Museum. |
Badlands Interpretive Trail
The Badlands Interpretive Trail is part of the Royal Tyrell Museum's offerings, but unlike the museum itself, the trail is free to experience. I squeezed my vehicle into the busy parking lot and joined the throngs of visitors who were walking towards the museum's entrance. When we reached the front doors, everyone turned left and headed inside, while I was the sole person to head straight. I crossed a road and began strolling down a dusty path towards a large sign exclaiming that I had begun the Badlands Interpretive Trail.
Welcome to the Badlands Interpretive Trail! |
Signage indicated that the 1.4 kilometre loop could take up to an hour to hike if one was so inclined, and begged participants to bring water, a hat, appropriate footwear, sunscreen, bug spray, and other survival gear. I shrugged my shoulders, thinking to myself, "I've done this trail before. No big deal." I was wearing jeans, a black shirt, a duster jacket, and sandals. I had no water, no sunscreen, no other amenities. But I had confidence, and that counts for something.
While the trail is by no means difficult, I do not actually recommend you hike it mid-day in the hot sun while wearing jeans, a black shirt, and sandals. I was roasting and sweaty and disgusting, and I nearly slipped in the pebbly clay that the path was comprised of a couple of times, narrowly escaping death. Okay, maybe it wasn't that dramatic, but I was hot and sweaty and I did slip a lot. Wear good shoes, people.
Follow the black tar road... to learn all about dinosaurs and rocks! |
The Badlands Interpretive Trail was a lot different than I remembered it from my youth. I believe it has been redone since I last visited. I have memories of bone beds, and interactive things to do along the way. There was none of that in 2017. But the trail is full of informative signs, pretty sights, giant rocks, and lots of cacti. It just seemed to be less exciting than I remember it from earlier days. Maybe I am simply mis-remembering the trail.
Some spots on the Badlands Interpretive Trails were stunningly beautiful. |
When I finished the hike, I ducked into the museum to use the facilities and enjoy the heavenly air-conditioning. Feeling refreshed, I headed back to my car to find the next stop in the Dinosaur Trail loop.
Star Mine Suspension Bridge (Rosedale Suspension Bridge)
In order to reach the next section of the Dinosaur Trail, you have to drive all the way through Drumheller and continue exploring on the other side. It is about a 15-20 minute drive depending on the traffic in town. Follow Highway 56 out of town, then turn into the small community of Rosedale. There is signage indicating how to reach the bridge. Officially, the suspension bridge is called the Star Mine Suspension Bridge, but locally everyone just calls it the Rosedale Suspension Bridge. Potato, potahto.
The Star Mine Suspension Bridge as seen from the far side. |
I have written about this bridge in a prior post as well, so I am not going to blather away about it here. It is well worth a visit, not just for the bridge experience, but also to wander around the area and enjoy the beauty. Once again, there is no fee associated with the suspension bridge.
The property on the far side of the bridge is privately owned, so you technically aren't supposed to be wandering around and hiking on the land, but lots of people do and no one ever seems to get reprimanded for it. I took my kids with me on this part of my journey (they'd been staying with Grandma, so we all decided to go to the bridge together) and as we hiked we found a bull snake and other exciting things, like a big hole in the ground. The hole was probably the highlight of the day for my kids.
Who doesn't love a giant, mysterious hole in the ground? |
The Hoodoos
The next stop on the Dinosaur Trail is a geologically important one - the hoodoos. These are unique rock formations created over time through wind and water erosion, and are quite impressive to view. I have, once again, written about the hoodoos in a prior post, so I won't go into too much detail here.
Please keep the hoodoos standing - stay on the paths! |
On this visit, however, I noticed something a little disheartening. There are way less hoodoos at the Drumheller hoodoo site now than when I wrote about it last. People have been vandalizing them, both intentionally and also unintentionally. What do I mean, unintentionally? I mean that despite the lovely parks people erecting staircases, pathways, railings, signs, and every other deterrent they could think of to discourage people from walking and crawling all over the hoodoo site, people still continue to climb wherever they please. This constant traffic has been the downfall of not only the larger more established hoodoos, but also interferes with the creation of new ones.
Aw! Holding hands outside the hoodoos. |
I was quite disgusted to see people just literally EVERYWHERE on the hoodoo site. Everywhere, except maybe, the pathways they were supposed to stay on. We didn't stay long this time around, because it made my heart hurt to see people so willfully damaging the hoodoos that I find so precious. We had to leave before I started yelling at strangers. Please, if you are reading this and plan on visiting the hoodoos, do NOT walk on them. Stay on the paths. Protect their beauty.
The Atlas Coal Mine and Last Chance Saloon
There are two more stops on the Dinosaur Trail to make it complete: the Atlas Coal Mine and the Last Chance Saloon. However, driving the whole trail, stopping at each sight, and enjoying the attractions for what they are makes for a very long day! I would suggest you try to fit the entire Dinosaur Trail into a weekend adventure rather than a day trip.
Due to the nature of the Dinosaur Trail, and the fact that I was trying to make it a quick trip, we didn't get to finish off the last two sights. I am hoping to go back soon and complete my Drumheller blog series with a post about the coal mine and the saloon. Stay tuned for that future post as well!
There is so much to see and do in the Drumheller area. I can't believe I didn't appreciate it more growing up. I am thankful that I have multiple chances to go back now as an adult and enjoy the region to its fullest. I suggest you come on down and do the same!
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